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Bleuwave Plumbing

Residential · Bathroom Remodel Plumbing

The best time to fix the pipes in a bathroom is the one week the walls are open.

Rough-in through trim-out for bathroom remodels: drains moved in the slab, valves set at the right depth, permits pulled, inspections passed, and the old pipe checked before it disappears again.
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Bathroom Remodel Plumbing in Phoenix & Scottsdale, priced before we start.

Most of the Valley’s housing went up fast, on concrete slabs poured over the drain lines, in waves that followed air conditioning and then the freeways. That history is sitting under your bathroom floor. The toilet, tub, and sink drains were set in place before the concrete arrived, and they have stayed exactly there ever since. It’s why a bathroom remodel here starts with a question a remodel over a basement never has to ask: how much concrete are we willing to cut?

Remodel plumbing happens in two stages. Rough-in comes first, with the walls and floor open: drains cut in and sloped a quarter inch per foot, vents tied in, supply lines run, and the shower valve body mounted at the depth its trim requires. An inspector looks at the work, and nothing gets covered until it passes. Trim-out comes last, after tile and paint, with the faucets, showerhead, toilet, and final connections. The quality of the finished room is mostly decided at rough-in, where nobody will ever see it again.

Moving a fixture on a slab is real work. Relocating a toilet drain a few feet means a trench through the concrete, a new fitting on the existing line, the right slope back to it, and a patch. A curbless shower needs a recess in the slab so the floor can pitch toward the drain. A tub-to-shower conversion often needs a larger drain, because many tubs drain through 1½-inch pipe and many jurisdictions want 2 inches under a shower. A freestanding tub needs its drain and filler brought up through the floor in precisely the right spot.

Opening the walls is also a chance to see what the house is made of. Homes built from roughly 1978 to 1995 often have gray polybutylene supply pipe, which can fail from the inside with little warning. Older homes may have galvanized steel, narrowed by decades of scale. If either turns up behind the shower wall, replacing it while the wall is already open costs far less than cutting into new tile later. The repipe decision tool helps weigh whether to stop at the bathroom or do the whole house.

Most remodels are run by a general contractor or by the homeowner, and we come in as the plumbing trade: rough-in, inspection, trim-out. The plumbing is priced flat before anything is demolished. The part people underestimate is fixture lead time. Order the shower valve and the toilet before demo day, because rough-in can’t happen without the valve in hand and a toilet’s drain position depends on the model.

What to settle before demo day

  • Gray plastic pipe at the water heater or under a sink

    Likely polybutylene. If it feeds the bathroom, replace it while the walls are open, and price a whole-home repipe at the same time so you can compare.

  • A shower with two or three separate handles

    Those valves predate anti-scald requirements. A remodel means a new pressure-balancing or thermostatic valve, and its body has to go in during rough-in.

  • Does the tub drain slowly no matter what you do?

    Recurring slow drains in an older bathroom can mean a sagging or scaled line under the slab. A camera inspection before demo costs far less than discovering the problem after new tile is down.

  • Loose tile or a soft spot around the toilet

    A long-running leak at the floor seal. The flange may need replacing and the area may need to dry out before anything new goes down.

  • The water heater already struggles to fill the tub

    A larger soaking tub or a multi-head shower can outrun an aging tank. Decide on capacity, or on a tankless heater, while you’re planning, not when the first bath runs cold.

  • Stains on the ceiling below an upstairs bath

    The pan, the drain, or a supply joint has been leaking into the ceiling. Find the source now, before the remodel covers it up again.

How we handle the plumbing side

  1. 01

    Walk-through with the plan

    We look at the layout, which fixtures are moving, what’s in the slab, and which valve and fixtures you’ve chosen. Then you get a flat price for the plumbing work.

  2. 02

    Permit, then rough-in

    We pull the plumbing permit where the city requires one. With walls and floor open, drains, vents, and supplies go in, the valve is set to its trim’s specified depth, and everything is photographed before it’s covered.

  3. 03

    Inspection

    The city inspector checks the rough-in, typically with the lines under test. Nothing gets closed up until it passes.

  4. 04

    Tile and finish, by others

    Your tile setter or contractor takes the room from there. We stay reachable if a question comes up about a niche, a drain height, or a valve extension.

  5. 05

    Trim-out and final

    Faucets, showerhead and trim, toilet, and supply stops set and tested, with anti-scald checked at the head. The rough-in photos go to you, so the next person who opens that wall knows what’s behind it.

What it costs

Priced per project, flat, before demolition

Remodel plumbing varies more than any other bathroom work. The biggest factors: whether fixtures stay put or move (and how far through the slab), the kind of shower (a standard pan, or a curbless or linear-drain design), the valve and fixture package, whether old supply pipe needs replacing, and permit requirements in your city. We price it after a walk-through, and the number holds once agreed. Larger projects can be spread out with financing.

Financing is available on larger jobs

Tile gets all the attention in a remodel. The pipes behind it get one week of daylight, and that’s the week to get them right.

Bathroom Remodels: questions we get asked

Straight answers, the same ones we give on the phone.

Can you move a toilet on a concrete slab?
Yes, by cutting a trench in the slab, extending the drain with correct slope, and patching the concrete. Distance and direction matter, since the new line has to meet the existing drain at a workable depth. Most toilets are set 12 inches from the finished wall to the center of the drain, so even a small shift gets measured carefully.
Do I need a permit to remodel a bathroom in Phoenix?
Moving or adding plumbing generally requires one in Phoenix and most Valley cities. Swapping a faucet or toilet in place usually doesn’t. Requirements vary from city to city, so we check for your address and pull the permit when it’s needed.
How long does the plumbing part of a remodel take?
Rough-in is usually a few days, longer when the slab has to be cut. Then comes the inspection, which runs on the city’s schedule, not ours. Trim-out is typically a day. Most of the calendar belongs to demolition, tile, and waiting on fixtures.
Should I replace old pipes during a bathroom remodel?
If they’re polybutylene or galvanized, at least the runs feeding that bathroom, yes. The walls are open and the labor to reach the pipe is already paid for. Whether to go further is the subject of the Field Report on the repipe decision.
What’s involved in converting a tub to a shower?
The drain usually gets upsized and moved to suit the new pan, the valve moves up the wall (a tub valve sits lower than a shower valve), and the old spout outlet gets capped. On a slab, that often means cutting concrete at the drain. It’s one of the more common remodel jobs we rough in.
Can I keep my existing shower valve during a remodel?
Sometimes, if it’s a current model whose trim is still made, it sits at the right depth for the new wall, and it works properly. Often it isn’t worth the gamble: the valve costs less than the tile around it, and replacing it later means breaking that tile. If a working valve only needs a cartridge, that’s ordinary shower repair.

Related services

Problems that tend to travel together.

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Serving the entire Phoenix metro, seven days a week.

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